Glossary
Decode industry jargon with the Glossary section. Find key terms and their definitions commonly used in the textile and knitwear sector, ensuring a clear understanding of the language shaping our industry.
2T
Transfer in both direction
3D pattern
Garments or materials produced three-dimensionally as one piece allowing for textured knit specifications
Abrasian Resistance
The ability to withstand friction that may result in damage of the yarn & piling.
Absorbency
The ability of a fabric to tak in or soak up moisture
Acid & Alkali Resistance
The degree of resistance to deformation when exposed to an acid or alkali.
Adaptable
Able to be modified to a new use or purpose.
Agility
Ability to understand, think and act quickly.
All-In-One approach
Create an integrated design and manufacturing approach with the result to create different kind of features and end uses within one material or a more leaner approach rather than a scattered production method.
Anti-bacterial
Antimicrobial textile products continue to play a role in odor control as well as controlling the spread of infectious microorganisms.
Anti-microbial
A finishing process in which material i treated with additives that offer protection from bacteria.
ATY (Air Textured Yarn)
A bulked yarn that has been textured by a cold-air stream. Fabric made with ATY has good moisture absorption and is similar to those made with staple fiber.
Availability of fabric cutting
B-Corp
B-Corporation is a certification to ensure companies consider the impact of their decisions on their worker, customers, suppliers, community and environment.
BBCI
Biodegradable
Materials that are degredable by living organisms such as bacteria and fungi.
Biomimicry
Design methodogies to design sustainable solutions through the study of nature and organic systems
Bleaching
The process of whitening fabri or removing colour usually carried out with chemical treaments
Blue Angel
The Blue Angel is the ecolabel of the federal government of Germany since 1978 that sets standards for environmentally friendly product design
Bluesign®
Bluesign is an emerging standard for environmental health and safety in the manufacturing of textiles. Auditing of textile mills, examining manufacturing
processes from raw materials and energy inputs to water and air emissions outputs. Each component is assessed based on its ecotoxicological impact
Brand
A type of product retailed by a particular company under a particular name.
Breathability
Breathability is the ability of a fabric to allow moisture vapor to be transmitted through the material
Bulkiness Elasticity
Cable
A knitting stich that produces a design like a twisted rope (cable).
Cam
A cam controls the reciprocating movement of the knitting needles and sinkers in the needle cylinder groove according to the different needs of the knitting varieties of the circular knitting machine
Carbon Footprint
The amount of CO2 produced during development and transport of a product.
Carding
Carding machine used rollers to untangle and seperate fibres, remove vegetable matter, partially align fibres and form firbes into a sliver.
Ceres
Ceres is a nonprofit organisation thta works with influential capital market leaders to solve sustainability issues.
Changing
Chemical resistant
The ability of a material to provide protection against chemicals or solvent reactions
Circular approach
A circular economy (often referred to simply as "circularity") is an economic system aimed at eliminating waste and the continual use of resources. This regenerative approach is in contrast to the traditional linear economy, which has a 'take, make, dispose' model of production.
Clearing
The needle has been raised to its highest position clearing the old loop from its latch.
Closed Mesh
Coarse
Rough surface lacking in fineness & delicacy
Colour Effect Yarn
Yarn with different colour effect on the surface - includes coloured spun yarn, AB yarn and multi fibers spun yarn.
Combing
A process that removes vegetable matter, nep and short fibres (noils).
Commercial Available
Compact Spinning
A process of spinning in which the fibre strand drawn by the drafting system is condensed before twisting it. This method imporves tesile properties, reduces hairness and improved the regularity of the yarn.
Compression
Compression garments are pieces of clothing that fit tightly around the skin. In medical contexts, compression garments provide support for people who have to stand for long periods or have poor circulation. These come in varying degrees of compression.
Cool
Wicks away heat to provide cool feel
Core Spinning
A process of spinning in which fibers are twisted around an existing yarn.
Course
A predominantly horizontal row of needle loops (in an upright fabric as knitted) produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle.
Cradle to Cradle - Basic
• The product is 100% characterized by its generic materials (e.g., aluminum, polyethylene,
steel, etc.) and/or product categories and names (e.g., coatings).
• The appropriate metabolism (i.e., technical nutrient (TN) or biological nutrient (BN) is identified
for the product and its materials and/or chemicals
• The product does not contain any Banned List chemicals based on supplier declarations.
Cradle to Cradle - Gold
• The product has been 100% assessed (by weight) using ABC ratings. All EMCs are
considered assessed as non-X.
• The product contains no X assessed materials (optimization strategy is not required).
• Product meets Cradle to Cradle emissions standards.
Cradle to Cradle - Silver
• The product has been at least 95% assessed (by weight) using ABC-X ratings. Externally
Managed Components (EMCs) are considered assessed and contribute to the overall
percentage of the product that has been assessed. Products that are entirely BN in nature
(e.g., cosmetics, personal care, soaps, detergents, etc.) are 100% assessed.
• The product contains no substances known or suspected to cause cancer, birth defects,
genetic damage, or reproductive harm (CMRs) after the A, B, C, X assessment has been
carried out.
Cross Stitch
Cross stitch is a type of embroidery technique where stitches are made to form an "X" shape. It involves creating a series of tiny crosses in a grid pattern on fabric, usually Aida cloth or linen. Cross stitch can be used to create decorative designs, patterns, or images on various textiles, such as clothing, household linens, and accessories. It's a popular form of needlework and is often used for creating intricate and detailed designs.
Custom Made Dyeing
Custom made dyeing is a service where yarn manufacturers offer the option for customers to request specific colors or color combinations for their yarns.
Customized bulk production
The flexibility to produce unique pieces and at the same time have the efficiency of bulk production.
Cut Resistance
High tech fibers designed to prevent from cut and injuries during wear.
Design Studio
An individual or collective of designers engaged in conceiving, designing and developing new products or objects.
Diameter
The size of machine defined by its diameter.
Dimensional stabilization
A finishing process to ensure a fabric will not change in shape or size once subject to any other processes such as washing.
Domestic Washing
A home appliance used to wash laundry/material.
Double Faced Structure
Fabric produced by two indepedent sets of needle that draw their loops from the same yarn in opposite directions, so that the fabric, formed in the gap between the two sets.
Double Jersey Machine
Knitting machine with two sets of needles; one on dial and one on cylinder. There are no sinkers.
DTY (Draw Textured Yarn)
A fully drawn yarn with soft crimp, high bulk and texture to produce a yarn that has high durablity, elasticty and retention properties.
Durable
Exceptionaly durable, such that the material appreciably outlasts other solutions
Dyeing (Completely immersing the fabric,
yarn or fiber in an aqueous dye bath)
Eco Dyeing Techniques
Ecological Certifications
Certfied products produced without using any chemical inputs, additives and methods harmful to humans and ecological system.
Elasticity Modulus (cN/dtex)
The fibers/ yarns reistance to being deformed elastically by stress, defined by the ratio of stress-to- strain.
Elongation
The ultimate elongation of a yarn in a particular direction using a predetermined amount of force.
Elongation Ratio (%)
Embossed
A knitting stictch that adds defintion and texture to a material.
End Consumer
An end user of knitted product.
Energy Harvesting
Ability to absorb energy.
Engineering
Is a technical method of constructing a garment based upon the body's response to activity – and the activity itself. Garments are thoughtfully-designed to retain heat in some areas, release it in others and use optimal fabrics and functional enhancements where necessary to serve you better.
Ergonomics
The study of improving designs for products or systems to enhance the user's experience, comfort, or performance.
Exclusivity
The right to have or do something that is limited to only one person or organization.
Fabric
Fairtrade
Fairtrade ensures fair pay to companies and producers in developing countries.
Fancy Yarn
A single yarn with a structure effect - e.g. bunchy yarn, covered yarn, big-belly yarn, Knickerbocker yarn and knots yarn.
FDY (Fully Drawn Yarn)
Sythetic yarn whose that is spun at high speeds so that the orientation of modelcules to its full extent. The fiber is smooth and creates fabric that aren't fluffy, have a hard feeling and poor breathability.
Fiber
Fibrillation (grade)
Final product
Finishing
Textile manufacturing processes used on textiles after they have been made, to enhance certain material qualities
Flame Retardant
Material that can prevent the start or slow the growth of fire.
Flatbed
A weft-knitting machine where fabric is knitted on horizontal needle beds.
Flexibility
The ability to change or be changed easily according to the situation.
Folding
Fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place
Full Cardigan Stitch
A tucked rib knit stitch, which creates the same series of wales (lengthwise ridges/ribs) on both the face and the back of the fabric.
Furry
Resembling fur
Gauge
The number of needles in an inch.
Gilling
The process of blending together card slivers with the direction of the feed alternated in order to make it suitable for spinning.
Global Recylced Standard (GRS)
Global Recylced Standard (GRS) tracks and verifies the recycled contents of products and esnures respinsible social, environmental and chemicals in production. Owned by Textile Exchange (1 Janurary 2011).
Glossy
Shiny and smooth
Half cardigan stitch
A tucked rib knit stitch, which is a variation of the full cardigan stitch (with spaces between the wales on the face of the fabric closer together than those of the Full Cardigan).
Healing
The ability to provide skin/ body benifitting properties.
Heat Management
The ability to control the temperature of a system by means of technology based on thermodynamics and heat transfer
Heat Setting Process – Technopea
Machine used on synthetic fibres to make material dimensionally stable by subjecting it to high heat in a hot air tunnel. https://www.tecnopea.com/
Hold Stitch
Hollow
Hollow fibre is described as a filament with a hollow core.
How can you describe the material process in one sentence?
Human centric design
Is an approach to problem solving, commonly used in design and management frameworks that develops solutions to problems by involving the human perspective in all steps of the problem-solving process. Human involvement typically takes place in observing the problem within context, brainstorming, conceptualizing, developing, and implementing the solution.
Hydrophillic
A yarn/ fabric that has an affinity to waterand trandsport moisture away from the skin to the surface.
Impact Resistance
Ability to withstand intense force or shock.
In Lays
A knitting method used to add another yarn without kniting it, the second yarn moved between the stitches front and back.
Industrial Iron
Device used to remove wrinkles using heat from steam and sunction beneath the ironing board. This device is much larger and more powerful than a domestic iron.
Innovation
A new idea or method, or the use of new ideas and methods.
Interlock Stitch
Structure with technical face of plain fabric on both sides created with two feeder courses. Its smooth surface cannot be stretched out to reveal the reverse meshed loop wales because the wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.
ISO
ISO certification certifies that a management system, manufacturing process, service, or documentation procedure has all the requirements for standardization and quality assurance. Ensures the quality, safety, and efficiency of products, services, and systems.
Knitting System
The knitting system includes cylinder (dial), needle, sinker, cam, cam box, sinker ring, sinker cap, yarn feeder and so on. Respondible forming yarn into a loop and meshed continuous.
Labor Saving
To be advised
Lamination
A finishing process that involves the bonding of two or more materials using adhesive or heat.
Lightness
Drastically reduced weight compared with existing alternatives
Loft
High loft is thick and fluffy, low loft is thin and dense. Often the higher the loft, the better the insulation characteristic.
Loop-transfer
The transfer of a full or part of a needle loop or sinker loop on to an adjacent needle, either in the same bed or in an opposing bed.
Low Torque Spinning
Luxe
Of high end quality. Premium product.
Machine Speed
Speed of machine measured in RPM (revolution per minute)
Martindale Testing
A device that evaluates the abrasian resistance and fabric pilling of textiles by rotating plates over the fabric and measuring the number or rotations (given as a grade) it can withstand before noticeable wear occurs.
Mattening
A finishing process in which material is treated to reduce shineness.
Merrow Stitch
Decorative overlock stitching to provide different finishes for seams and hems. http://www.merrow.com/merrow_stitching/app/decorative
Metallic
Materials that resemble metal or contain metallic sheen
Miss Stitch/ Float Stitch
A knitting construction formed when the needle holds the old loop and does not receive new yarn, connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wales.
Modulus (cN/dtex)
The ratio of stress (force per unit area) along an axis to strain (ratio of deformation over initial length) along that axis.
Moisture Management
The controlled movement of water vapour and liquid water (perspiration) from the surface of the skin to the atmostphere through the fabric.
Moisture Regain
The weight/weight percentage (w/w%) of water in a material versus the material's dry weight.
Monitoring
Ability to moniter specified functions on the wearer.
Monofilament
A single untwisted strand of synthetic fibre.
Napping/raising
A finishing process that uses cylinders with metal points to raise surface fibres, giving the material thick, soft and diathermic qualities.
Ne
No. of 840 yard lengths per pound (LB).
Needle Gauge
Needle gauge refers to the measurement of the diameter of knitting needles. It is typically expressed in terms of millimeters (mm) or in needle size numbers, which vary depending on the country or region. The needle gauge determines the size of the stitches and the overall tension of the knitted fabric. Different knitting projects may require different needle gauges depending on the desired fabric thickness and the type of yarn being used.
NM
The length of the 1g of yarn.
Non-Prescriptive Graduated Support Hosiery (Standard BS7563)
A series of tests to show a material meets the requirements of British Standard for the compression and stiffness of non-prescriptive graduated support hosiery.
Number of Feeds
The mechanism responsible for supplying the yarn to the needles for the knitting process. The feed mechanism ensures that the yarn is delivered to the needles at the correct tension and timing to create the desired knitted fabric. There are various types of feed mechanisms in knitting machines, including but not limited to, positive feed, negative feed, and compound feed systems, each designed to accommodate different types of yarns and knitting techniques. The efficiency and performance of the feed mechanism play a crucial role in the overall operation and output quality of the knitting machine.
Oil Injection System
Lubricates the track to make sure machine can run smooth
Open Mesh
A knitting method that created a material with a large number of closely spaced holes.
Ottoman
A knitting method used to create a horizontal rib structure.
Partially Orientated Yarn (POY)
Yarn that has been stretched during spinning process, in order to orient the molecules to produce a yarn with specific charcteristics (tenacity, shrinkage and elongation).
Pattern Row
A pattern row is a horizontal row of needle loops produced by adjacent needles in one needle bed. In plain weft knitted fabric this is identical to a course but in more complex fabrics a pattern row may be composed of two or more course lengths.
Physical Material Testing
Physical material testing in yarns and fabrics involves evaluating various mechanical and physical properties of the materials to assess their performance, durability, and suitability for specific applications. These inlcudes: strength testing, abrasion resistance testing, dimensional stability, colorfastness, pilling resistance, water resistance, thermal properties. By conducting physical material testing, manufacturers and researchers can ensure that yarns and fabrics meet quality standards, regulatory requirements, and performance expectations for their intended use in various industries such as apparel, home textiles, automotive, and technical textiles.
Pique Stitch
A knitted construction that contains both knitted and tucked stitches.
Plain Stitch
The simplest and most economical weft knitted structure to produce. Has the maximum covering power and a potential recovery of 40% in width after stretching
Pleats/ Ruffles
Fabric is folded or gathered and secured in place to create pleats or ruffles.
Ply
The number of yarns that are twisted around one another to create one single thread.
Powdery
Granular feel
Printing
Fixing dye on to fabric to create a specific patterm/image.
Production Capacity
Proof of Concept
Protection
Protective clothing or protective textiles are one of the parts of technical textiles which are used principally for their performance or functional properties rather than their decorative or aesthetic properties. Protection from extreme environmental situation has always been a crucial requirement of textile products.
Quick Dry
The residual water content remained in the fiber after a determined period of time.
Radiationproof
The ability to protect from radiation.
Reclaimed
Materials that has been removed from an existing structure or product with no significant change to its form, then offered for re-use
Recovery
The recovery ability (%) of increase in length of yarn when the load is removed
Recycling
The process of converting used waste into resuable material
Reflectivity
The property of reflecting light or radiation, especially reflectance as measured independently of the thickness of a material.
Reliability
The quality of being able to be trusted or believed because of working or behaving well:
Renewable Content
Sourced from grown harvested bio-based organisms, including trees that are not rapidly renewable (as defined by LEED)
Responsible production
Responsible production involves the production of goods and services in an ethical way which involves the minimisation of waste and pollution.
Rib
Textured vertical stripes
Ribbed
Rotor Spinning
Also called Open End Spinning. A process of spinning in which individual fibers are allowed to flow into a rotating yarn end, where upon they bind to the yarn aided by continuous rolling movement.
Roving
Roving is wool that has been carded to be 40 time thinner before it can be spun.
Run（Ladder）Resistant
(of hosiery) resistant to runs or (in Britain) ladders
S-Twist
Spun or staple yarn twisted in a clock-wise direction.
Sanding/sueding
A finishing process in which a material is abraded to raise or create a fibrous surface like suede.
Scouring
Process of washing to remove contaminents such as dirt, wax/oil, etc.
Seam slippage
A device that evaluates the degree of separation or pulling apart of yarns in a fabric along a sewn seam or join by pulling a swatch in bot warp and weft directions.
Seamless
Material/ product that has not been cut and sewn by traditional cut & sew methods, therfore does not contain any seams
Self Stopping Device
Responsible for stopping knitting due to dropped stitch motion, needle broken motion, firing-pin detector, yarn, feeder detector and cloth fall off stop motion
Sewing Machine
Machine with a mechanically driven needle that sews material together through stitch.
Shear (Linearity)
Device used to evaluate the maximum shear stress that can be sustained by a material.
Silky
The qualities of silk, especially soft, refine, and lustrous
Single Faced Structure
Fabric produced on a single set of needles.
Single Jersey Machine
Knitting machine with only one cyclinder with one set of needles & sinkers
Siro Spinning
A process of spinning in which two rovings are passed through a drafting system parallel to each other and then combined to create a two-fold yarn.
Size Control
Slippery
Smooth, no grip
Small Production Capabilities
Smooth
Soft and sleek
Social Responsibility
The obligation of an organization's management towards the welfare and interests of the society in which it operates.
Soft touch
Soft on skin, no irritation caused by texture
Softness
The quality of being easy to mould, cut, compress, or fold.
Spacer
A fabric structure in which two outer layers of fabric are connected by a layer of pile threads.
Speed Control System
Used for output calculation and shift production statistics
Spongy
Porous, compressible and absorbennt
Stakeholders
A person with an interest or concern in something, especially a business.
Static Electricity
The degree of charge generation in yarn that can lead to static charge.
Sticky/Grippy
Surface creates friction
Stiffness of Fabrics
Device used to evaluate bending length (cm) and/or flexural rigiditymg (ability of fabric to resist bending by its own weight/external forces, mg cm). Cantilever test or Heart loop test.
Stitch Denisty
The total number of loops in a measured area of fabric.
Stock Service
A stock service is a service provided by the company where they maintain a ready inventory of yarn products available for immediate purchase and delivery.
Strength (cN/dtex)
Strength of a fiber/yarn measured in cN/dtex, how much centiNewton of force per decitex a fibre/yarn can bear.
Stretchability
The ultimate elongation of a yarn in a particular direction using a predetermined amount of force.
Suppliers
A manufacturer using Santoni technology that supplies products for the brands and end consumers.
Take Down System
The take down system withdraws the fabric from the needles and winds them into the cloth roll (tube or open width). Consists of three draw off rollers, gear, spring, cloth beam (or cloth box), etc. (Electrical controlled take-down system also includes take-up motor, mercury converter, etc.).
Tapestry Jaquard
A knitting method used to add pattern/image by the use of different coloured yarns.
Technical Face
The side of fabric tha shows the face stitches in the form of the side limbs of the loops or overlaps as a series of interfitting ‘V’s
Temperature regulation
Many intelligent textiles are designed to respond to adverse conditions in their environment and there by provide enhanced protection. ... Temperature regulation or thermo-regulation is best defined by its goal, which is to maintain both the core body temperature and the comfort of the wearer in diverse environments.
Tensile strength
The ability of fabric to withstand pulling (tensile) force.
Textured Fiber
A yarn whose smooth straight fibers have been crimped, curled, looped or coiled in order to change the behaviour of yarn and the fabric created from it.
Thermal Resistance
The degree of resistance to deformation under heat.
Touch
The “hand” of a fabric refers to the “feel” of the fabric against your skin.
Transmission Mechanism
Transmission system includes motor, transmission gear, band carrier, drive link, electricity box, and inverter (Mecmor machine installed with servo motor).
Trapper
True Hole Mesh
Tuck
A stitch that is created when a needle already holding a loop receives another loop which is tucked in behind the held stitch. This knitting method reduces the length elasticity and increases the width of the fabric.
Tucking
Tucking in the hook or rest position. The sinker is forward, holding down the old loop whilst the needle rises from the rest position.
Tumbling
Uniqueness
The quality of being unlike anything else; it denotes distinctiveness, individuality, or originality. In various contexts, uniqueness can refer to a product, idea, experience, characteristic, or feature that sets something apart from others and makes it stand out.
Upgrade
To improve the quality or usefulness of something, or change it for something newer or of a better standard.
UV protection
Material that can protect from UV radiation
Vertical Wicking
A device that evaluates vertical wicking by the rise of liquid along the vertical length of a fabric when one end is immursed in liquid.
Wale
A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting at successive (not necessarily all) knitting cycles.
Warp
A knitting machine that knits stitches that run vertically down the fabric.
Warp Knitting Machine
A knitting machine that knits stitches that run vertically down the fabric.
Waste Material Content
Sourced from waste streams or other sources that have been generally considered non-valuable 'waste' from manufacturing processes
Water Repellant
The characteristics of yarn to not absorb water.
Waterproof Testing Machine
Device used to evaluate the ability of a fabric to resist water leaking through. e.g. the Hydrostatic Head Test tests waterproof ability by increasing water pressure until water leaks through.
Wearable technology
A category of technology devices that can be worn by a consumer and often include tracking information related to health and fitness.
Weather proof
Weatherproof fabrics are fabrics that are inherently, or have been treated to become, resistant to penetration by weather conditions (water, wind and wetting). The term "waterproof or windproof" refers to conformance to a governing specification and specific conditions of a laboratory test method.
What makes the material unique?
Yarn
Yarn Feeding
The sinker is partially withdrawn allowing the feeder to present its yarn to the descending needle hook and also freeing the old loop so that it can slide up the needle stem and under the open latch spoon.
Yarn Finger
Z-Twist
Spun or staple yarn twisted in an anti-clockwise direction
3D
3D Knit means knitting to shape to what is needed, creating anatomically correct products or components.
3D Printer
Device that makes physical objects from a three-dimentional digital model with specialized printing machinery.
Abrasion Resistance
Ability to withstand surface wear from rubbing.
Abundant Materials
Raw materials abundantly available in the Earth's crust or on its surface
Actuator
A comoponent of the machine responsible for moving and controlling a system placed on each feed to control knit and transfer.
Additive manufacturing
Additive manufacturing is the official industry standard term (ASTM F2792) for all applications of the technology. It is defined as the process of joining materials to make objects from 3D model data, usually layer upon layer, as opposed to subtractive manufacturing methodologies.
Air Jet/ Air Vortex
A process of spinning in which uses a high speed air vortex to create a twist in the deposited fibers.
Anti Folding
The resilience of a yarn to deformation by folding.
Anti-crease
Of a material that prevents creasing or wrinkling of clothing, or a clothing care process
Anti-static
Prevent the build-up of static electricity and electrostatic discharges.
Auxillary System
Auxillary system is responsible for maintaning the rotaions of the machine. Includes oil injection system, speed control system, cleaning device (fan, blowpipe, dust catcher etc.) and self stopping device.
Availability of samples
Ball Burst Strength
A device used to evaluate the ball burst strength (the ability of material to maintain continuity when subject to pressure before rupture).
Bending (related to softness)
Biodegredable
Materials that are degredable by living organisms such as bacteria and fungi
Biopolymers
Polymers produced by or from living organisms, including lignin (PLA, PHAs, etc.)
Blister Stitch
A bubbled knitting construction.
Bluesign
Bluesign is an emerging standard for environmental health and safety in the manufacturing of textiles. Auditing of textile mills, examining manufacturing processes from raw materials and energy inputs to water and air emissions outputs. Each component is assessed based on its ecotoxicological impact.
Bonding
The adhesian of two objects using glue or heat. https://www.macpi.com/
Breaking Strength
Also called tensile strength, the maximum tensile force needed to rupture a yarn.
Brushing
A finishing process used to raise the surface fibres of a fabric to give fabric more lustre and set the lay of the pile.
Bursting Strength
Pressure (pounds per sqaure inch) required to rupture a material.
Calendering
A finishing process used to smooth and compress a material by passing it through a series of heated rolls.
Can the material be customized and in what way?
Carbonising
Use of sulphuric acid to remove vegetable matter.
CE Marking
The Conformitè Europëenne (CE) Mark is the European Union’s (EU) mandatory conformity marking for regulating the goods sold within the European Economic Area (EEA). Goods must conform to European health, safetey and environmental protetcion standards.
Certified
Products that have internationally recognized sustainability certifications, such as OEKO Tex, etc.
Chemical Material Testing
Chemical material testing involves analyzing the chemical composition of yarns and fabrics and evaluating their chemical properties, including: fabric composition, chemical additives, chemical properties, toxicity, environmental impact, durability and stability and compliance. By conducting chemical material testing, manufacturers, retailers, and regulatory agencies can verify the safety, quality, and compliance of yarns and fabrics, minimize risks associated with chemical exposure, and ensure consumer protection and environmental sustainability.
Circular
Knitting in a tubular form to create a seamless fabric - usually done by machine.
Circular Knitting Machine
Machine that knits in a tubular form to create a seamless fabric.
Closed Hole Mesh
Co2 Footprint
An assessment of how much Co2 the production, transport, use and disposal of a product will create.
Coating
A finishing process in which resin is deposited over a textile to give additional properties to the material e.g. waterproofness.
Colour Fastness
A test(s) to evaluate how well a textile will resist or withstand fading from UV, water/weather and abrasian.
Comfort
Comfort is defined as the absence of perceived pain and discomfort". Clothing comfort is a state of satisfaction indicating physiological, psychological, and physical balance among the person.
Comoposite Fiber
A yarn made of two polymers extruded to produce non-circular cross-sections, microdenier fibers, self-crimped fibers, fibers with electrical con-ductivity, and fibers for thermal bonding.
Compostable
Certified compostable according to ASTM D6400, EN13432, AS4736, ISO17088, EN14995, JIS K 6950
Conductivity
The ability of the yarn to conduct electricity when subjected to a determined difference of potential.
Cool feeling
Materials that are cool to the touch, with breathable and tempertature regulatory properties
Cost efficiency
A way of saving money, or of spending less money.
Course Length
The length of yarn required to produce a complete knitted course.
Cradle to Cradle - Bronze
•The product is at least 75% assessed (by weight) using ABC-X ratings. Externally Managed
Components (EMCs) are considered assessed and contribute to the overall percentage of the
product that has been assessed. Products that are entirely BN in nature (e.g., cosmetics,
personal care, soaps, detergents, etc.) are 100% assessed.
• A phase-out or optimization strategy has been developed for those materials with an X rating.
Cradle to Cradle - Platinum
• All process chemicals have been assessed and none have been assessed as X.
Crease resistance
A finishing process in which material is treated so that it retains its smooth appearacne, shape and creases/pleats after laundering. Such products need minimum ironing.
Cushioning (Creating Loft)
Customization
The process of tailoring a product, service, or experience to meet the specific needs, preferences, or requirements of an individual or a particular group of users. It involves offering options or features that allow users to personalize or modify aspects of a product or service according to their unique preferences, tastes, or specifications.
Cut & Sew
Fabric cut into sewing pattern and sewn together with appropriate methods, final products contsructed with multiple seams.
Degree of Crystanility
Degree of stuctural order in a fiber.
Detox to Zero by Oeko-Tex
Detox to Zero by Oeko-Tex is a a verification system for the textile and leather industry with a focus on waste water & sludge conformity, chemical use and environmental perfomance.
Dimensional Stability
The change in dimensions of a yarn/fiber after they are washes or relaxed.
DJ
Double Jersey
Double cylinder
Double Jersey
Drop stitch
A knitting method where on or more stitches is dropped producing a run in the fabric, used for creating open vertical stripes in a material.
Durability
Durability is defined as the ability of a material to remain serviceable in the surrounding environment during the useful life without damage or unexpected maintenance.
Dyeing
Process of applying colour to fibre/yarn.
Easily Recyclable
Materials that are either single or mono-materials, or can be easily recycled with no need for mechanical or chemical seperation prior to recycling
Eco Printing Techniques
Fixing dye on to fabric to create a specific patterm/image with the use of chemicals & processes that don't harm the environment.
Elasticity
The ability of a material to return to return to its original shape after being contorted or stretched
Electric Control System
The electrical control system is used to complete the setting of operating parameters, simple button operation, and fault automatic stop instructions.
Elongation Force
A device that evaluates the force needed to rupture a material.
Elongation Recovery Ratio (%)
Embroidery Machine
A machine that creates patterns and images using stitching.
Energy Consumption
The use of energy to develop and produce a product.
Energy saving
Relating to products, systems, etc. that use as little electricity, gas, etc. as possible
Environmental Friendly
Not harmful to the environment.
EU Ecolabel
Ecolabelling is a voluntary method of environmental performance certification and labelling that is
practised around the world. An ecolabel identifies products or services proven environmentally
preferable overall, within a specific product or service category
Eyelet Stitch
Created a structure characterized by small openwork motifs.
Fair trade
Trading practices that ensure fair treatment and wages for farmers, workers, and producers
Fancy Stitch
Fancy stitches include jaquard, miss, tuck, plating, laid-in, plush, wrap knitted, loop-transfer, eyelet stitch, racked stitch etc.
Fashion
The study of clothing, dress, and style
Feeder
Yarn feeder is also called steel shuttle or yarn guide. It is used to feed the yarn directly to the knitting needles. It has many types and shapes, including single-hole yarn feeder, two-hole one-slot yarn feeder, etc.
Fiber Dyeing
The process of coloring or tinting fibers, which are the basic building blocks used to make yarns and fabrics. In fiber dyeing, the dye is applied to the fibers before they are spun into yarns or woven into fabrics.
Filament
A fibre of indefinite length.
Fineness (dtex)
Fineness of fiber/yarn measured in dtex, the weight (grams) of 10,000m of fiber.
Fit retention/ Shapewear
Tight-fitting material intended to control and shape the figure.
Flat Bed Knitting Machine
A weft-knitting machine where fabric is knitted on horizontal needle beds. Can be use to create wholegarments.
Fleece
A knitted contruction that uses a combintain of knit, tuck and miss to create a deep-piled fabric.
Flexible
Easily bends and drapes as desired
Friction Spinning
An open end/ core type of spinning in which fibers are carried with an air flow onto the junction between two rotating perforated drums that compress and twist the fibres around one another.
Fully fashioned
A garment that is shaped and seamed to fit the body exactly
Garment Life Cycle
An assesment of the duration of garment life.
Geometric Jacquard
A knitting method used to add geometric shapes/pattern by the use of different coloured yarn.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) ensures the organic status of textile. This includes the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70 percent certified organic natural fibres
Global Reporting Initiative (GRI)
Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) i an independent international organistion that allows companies & organistations to understsand and communicate their impacts on issues such as climate change, human rights and corruption
Graduated Compression Hosiery (Standard BS6612)
A series of test to show a material meets the requirements of British Standard for the compression and stiffness of graduated compression hosiery, anti-embolism hosiery and graduated support hosiery.
Hanger Appeal
Health & Well-Being
The World Health Organisation (WHO) defines health as 'a state of complete physical, mental and social wellbeing and not merely the absence of disease or infirmity' (WHO, 1948). 'Wellbeing' refers to a positive rather than neutral state, framing health as a positive aspiration.
Heat Press
A machine thay uses heat and pressure to imprint a design or graphic onto a material.
Herringbone Stitch
A knitting stitch that is composed of a series of parrallel zig-zag lines that resemnle bones on a fish spine.
Holding Down
The sinker moves forward to hold down the new loop in its throat whilst the needle rises under the influence of the up throw cam to the rest position where the head of the open hook just protrudes above the sinker belly.
Horizontal Wicking
A device that evaluates horizontal wicking by the rise of liquid along the horizontal length of a fabric when one end is immursed in liquid.
HSHM (High-strength and high modulus)
High material strength and stillness
Hybridization
Merging different kind of technologies or features.
Hygroscopicty
The ability to absorb moisture from surrounding atmosphere.
In Development
In-Lay
A knitting method used to add another yarn without kniting it, the second yarn moved between the stitches front and back.
Industry 4.0
Refers to the concept of factories in which machines are augmented with wireless connectivity and sensors, connected to a system that can visualise the entire production line and make decisions on its own.
Insulation
The act of covering something to stop heat, sound, or electricity from escaping or entering.
Irregular Texture
Not uniform; patternless
Jacquard
A knitting method used to add pattern by the use of different coloured yarns.
Knot Strength (cN/tex)
The breaking strength of a knotted fibre/yarn in proportion to breaking strength without the knot.
Laid-in
A strcture comprising of at least two stitches and a laid-in yarn that forms a tuck loop followed, in the same course, by a float over one or more wales.
Licensable Technology
Lightweight
Drastically reduced weight compared with existing alternatives
Loop
A loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously formed basic units (stitches).
Low Carbon Footprint
Has a lower carbon footprint than other editions of this material or comparable solutions from other producers
Low/Non Toxic
Contains only GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) compounds or chemicals, or has reduced to an insignificant amount any chemicals of concern
Machine learning
Is the scientific study of algorithms and statistical models that computer systems use to perform a specific task without using explicit instructions, relying on patterns and inference instead. It is seen as a subset of artificial intelligence. Machine learning algorithms build a mathematical model based on sample data, known as "training data", in order to make predictions or decisions without being explicitly programmed to perform the task.[
Machine washable
Garments are able to be washed in a washing machine without getting damaged or ruined.
Matte or dull
Smooth, but not glossy
Max Speed
The highest achievable operational speed of the machine. It represents the maximum number of stitches or rows that the machine can knit per minute.
Mesh
A fabric structure characterized by net like spacing between fibers
Microfibers
Tiny strands of microplastics released by synthetic fabrics in wash cycles
Modular / Adaptable
Moisture Absorption
The degree of moisture uptake by a fiber/yarn.
Moisture Permeability
The ability of moisture to permeate into a yarn.
Moisture Release Ability
The ability of a fiber/yarn to release moisture into the surrounding envinroment.
Mono Material
A product that is only composed of a single material.
MPP
MPP in knitting machines stands for "Maximum Production Potential." It refers to the maximum capacity or capability of the knitting machine to produce knitted fabric under ideal conditions.
Nden/DEN
The weight of 9000 meters yarn with convention moisture regain
Needle
Metal hook responsible from creating loops in a knit structure, includes compound needle, Latch needle and bearded needle (spring needle).
Needle Loop
The part of a stitch drawn through the head of the preceding stitch. It consists of the head and the two shanks of the stitch.
No longer commercial available
Ntex
The weight of 1000 meters yarn with convention moisture regain.
Oeko-TEX® 100
Oeko-Tex is a registered trade mark. Oeko-Tex labels and certificates confirm the human-ecological
safety of textile products and leather articles from all stages of production (raw materials and fibres,
yarns, fabrics, ready-to-use end products) along the textile value chain. Some also attest to socially
and environmentally sound conditions in production facilities
Opaque
Organic
Organic means that the fiber the yarn is made from was produced without the use of man-made chemicals such as herbicides, pesticides or chemical fertilizer.
Overlocker
Sewing machine that create an overlocking stitch on the edge of a fabric for edging, hemming and seaming.
Patented
A patented technology.
Personalization
The action of designing or producing something to meet someone's individual requirements.
Pilling
Small balls of tangled fiber that form on material surfaces as indictions of wear
Plaids/ Check Pattern
Plaiting
Plush Stitch
Pointelle
A knittind method that creates an open hole pattern by using transfer stitches, usually in the shape of a chevron.
Power
Rates energy excerted by the body due to the garment composition. Low energy is needed for activewear garments for competition such as running or cycling. High energy is needed for garments for training and cross fit to maximizing the work-out. (Ie. compare with adding a sand bag during training)
Product S2FU01120
Frame Embrace
A material that embraces the wearer with a snug and supported feel in the necessary areas. Through body mapping, the wearer will not only feel comfortable but they will also carry themselves with positive posture. This thin and soft material is skin-friendly ?? perfect for under layering without irritation.
Productivity
Machine Productivity is the measuring of a machine's proficiency in converting the raw inputs into a useful product.
Proportion
Purl
Structure with one or more wales which contain both face and reverse loops, achieved with double-ended latch needles or by rib loop transfer from one bed to the other, combined with needle bed racking.
Racked Stitch
A stitch structure similar to half cardigan knit stitch, producing a herringbone pattern on the face and a ribbed look on the back.
REACH
Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) is a European Union
regulation dating from 18 December 2006. REACH addresses the production and use of chemical
substances, and their potential impacts on both human health and the environment.
Recognized
If someone or something is recognized, it is generally accepted that that person or thing has a particular position or quality
Recovery %
A device to evaluate the ability for the fabric to return to its oringal shape/ length after being stretched.
Reflective
Surface reflects light
Regrowing
Renewable
A natural resource or source of energy that is not depleted by use, such as water, wind, or solar power.
Research Phase
Reversed Plaiting
Rib Structure
Structure knitted with two sets of latch needles rib, has a vertical cord appearance because the face loop wales tend to move over and in front of the reverse loop wales.
Ring Spinning
A process of spinning in which the the yarn is twisted and drawn whilst travelling through a small metal device that rotates around a ring in the oprtaion of winding the yarn onto a bobbin.
Rough
Uneven surface, not gentle & smooth
Rubbery
Smooth and plasticy feel like rubber
S
Simple, only one actuator on cylinder
Sample
Satin
Shiny and soft
Seam Sealing
Device that applies a glue-like sealant across seams to create a waterproof barrier. https://www.macpi.com/
Seam Taping
Device that adds a layer of tape (usually polyurethane) to stop water from entering the seams. https://www.macpi.com/
Second Skin
Semi-Rigid
Lack of ease in bending and drape
Shaped Fiber
A fiber spun with a shaped spinneret to have a certain function e.g. gloss, good bulkiness, stain resistance and pill resistance.
Shrinkage
Device that shrinks the fabric so that it becomes more dimensionnaly stable - e.g. through laundering.
Single cylinder
Single Jersey
Sinkler Loop
The piece of yarn which joins one weft knitted needle loop to the next.
Sirofil Spinning
A moditfied Siro Spinning process in which one of the elements is replaced with a filament yarn. Filament yarn and staple fibre are twisted into a helical form.
Skin-Like
SM
Santoni Machine
Smart textiles
A material that can sense and react to environmental stimuli.
Snagging
Yarn/ fibres are pulled from a fabric.
Socks
Seamless knit product created using a small diater circular knitting machine.
Softening
A finishing process in which a material is treated to achieve a soft hand feel, smoothness and better drape and pliability.
Solvent Resistance
The degree of resistance to deformation when exposed to a solvent.
Specification for compression, stiffness and labelling of anti-embolism hosiery (Standard BS7672)
A series of test to show a material meets the requirements of British Standard for the compression, stiffness and labelling of anti-embolism hosiery.
Spinning
Process by which fibres are drawn out and twisted into a yarn.
Stain Resistance
Withstands discoloration caused by contact with liquids and solid surfaces.
Staple
A fiber with a practical, limited or finite length.
Steamer
Device used to remove wrinkles or heat treat certain yarns by use of high temperature steam.
Stiff
Does not bend or drape easily
Stitch
The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is the stitch. It consists of a yarn loop, which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loops.
Stitch Length
The length of yarn in a loop.
Strength
This refers to the how much weight the fibers can bear. Some fibers, like flax, actually get stronger when wet.
Stretch Elasticity Recovery
The degree of yarn recovery to its oringal shape after it has been stretched.
Superfine Fiber
A fiber that the is 0.3 denier or below (diameter 5 microns).
Synthetic biology
An area of science reasearch involves the application of engineering to living organisms
Tapestry Jacquard
A knitting method used to add pattern/image by the use of different coloured yarns.
Technical Back
The opposite side of the stitch to the face loop-side and shows reverse stitches in the form of sinker loops or underlaps as well as the heads of the loops.
Temperature Control
Ability to absorb and release heat in order to control temperature.
Tenacity
The resistance of fabric to break under tension
Textured
A knitting method used to create a a raised textured surface.
Texturing
Process by which fibres are given permanent crimp, loop or curl.
Torsion
The resistance of fibre to twisting.
Translucent
Transparent
Trial
Tubular
A fabric knitted using a circular machine to create a seamless tube of fabric.
Tuck Stitch
A stitch that is created when a needle already holding a loop receives another loop which is tucked in behind the held stitch. This knitting method reduces the length elasticity and increases the width of the fabric.
Tumble Dry
A process of drying washed clothes in a dryer by spinning them in hot air
Ultra Sonic Cutting
Device that uses ultrasonic energy to slice/ cut through objects.
Upcycled Material
Materials produced by transforming by-products, waste material & unwanted products into new materials.
User Friendly
If something, especially something related to a computer, is user-friendly, it is simple for people to use.
Variable
Waffle Stitch
A knitted contruction that uses a continuous combintain of knit and tuck to create raised threads that create a rectangle shape. Includes pique, 4 feed pique, 6 feed pique, 8 feed pique, twill pique, athletic pique , spandex pique and so on.
Warm
Traps heat providing warmth
Warp Knitting
Knitting method characterized by the structural threads of the fabric running along the length of the fabric approximately parallel with the selvedge in a zig-zag.
Washing Instructions
Washing instructions are guidelines provided by manufacturers to advise consumers on how to properly clean and maintain their garments. These instructions typically include recommendations on water temperature, washing cycle settings (such as delicate or normal), whether to use bleach or fabric softener, and whether the garment should be hand-washed or machine-washed. Additionally, washing instructions may also include guidance on drying methods (such as air drying or tumble drying), ironing temperature settings, and any specific precautions to take to avoid damaging the garment during washing. Following the washing instructions helps to prolong the life of the clothing, maintain its appearance, and prevent shrinkage, fading, or other damage.
Water Consumption
The use of water to develop and produce a product
Water solluble
The ability to be dissolved in water
Wear Resistance
The degree of resistance to material loss by a mechanical action.
Weather Fastness
The resistance of damage of yarn when exposed to weather elements (e.g. rain, wind, air etc.)
Weft knitting
Knitting method characterized by the structural threads running perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric.
Wrinkle- resistant
Material that does not wrinkle easily
Yarn Count
The thickness of a yarn, defined by mass per unit length or length per unit mass.
Yarn Feeding System
This system ensures the uniformity and continuity of the yarn feed & tension and that the size and shape of the loops in the fabric are consistent. Consists of creel, doffing tube, graduated plate, band carrier, yarn stop motion and guild roll. There are three different types of Yarn feeder: Positive yarn feeding, Passive yarn feeding and Electric storage type yarn feeder.
Yarn Sensor
Zero-Twist
Made by wrapping soluble filament with untwisted staple fibres, looks twistless.