SPP Designer Spotlight: Queenie Cheng

Written: 2022-09-30 05:14:24
Written by: Ecem Gur Tall

Who would’ve thought geometry and purses would go hand in hand?

 

The Santoni Pioneer Program, or SPP for short, exists to bridge the gap in communication among the different areas of the textile industry. SPP aims to progress the development of promising global knitted apparel designers by giving them access to the latest Santoni technology, training, and technicians over a two-month period in Shanghai, China.

SPP’s original vision was to provide designers from around the world who are enthusiastic about knitting with a platform to communicate directly with yarn and knitting machine engineers. The program encourages innovation and the discovery of new textile applications by breaking down communication barriers.

Santoni started this program in 2015, with 6-10 designers joining each year. These SPP designers enter with their own creative ideas and leave armed with new discoveries about fabric and products. One such participant, Tsz Kiu (Queenie) Cheng, utilized the Santoni Pioneer Program to develop her collection of geometric handbags inspired by nature. She emphasized that one of her biggest takeaways from the program was being able to professionally make prototypes and meet different people from different parts of the textile industry (designers, technicians, and manufacturers).

A Hong Kong native, Queenie Cheng received her degree in knitwear design and technology from Hong Kong Polytechnic University. She recalls being passionate about knitting even in her primary school days when she used to hand-knit garments. However, once she saw computerized knitting machines for the first time, she was immediately intrigued and thrust on a path toward a future of learning the complexities and capabilities of machine knitting. 

Queenie’s style involves creating designs that are minimal in color combinations and graphics. She tends to focus on silhouettes, cutting, and knitting stitches as well as use her math and science background to help guide her designs. She also enjoys challenging herself to design seamless products, which usually require precise judgment and skills. Queenie notes that the Santoni Pioneer Program provided her with a good foundation for handling complex designs, and, as a result, in the future, she would like to focus on zero-waste, seamless, and cut-free designs.

Queenie often finds herself inspired by the beauty of science and nature. In the early stages of her projects, though, she likes to keep things as conceptual as possible and avoid visual stimulation. She believes that excess visual information hinders her imagination and slows the process. Once she feels content with the concept, she uses sketches and 3D renderings to bring them to life, deciding on color as the final step.:

The Geometry collection, which Queenie developed during her time as an SPP designer, is a series of handbags featuring striking geometric patterns as the design focal point. Geometry is a word originating from Ancient Greek, meaning the "measurement of the earth," so it’s only fitting that Queenie’s own collection was inspired by the tranquility and beauty of the geometries in nature. The seamless handbag collection imitates the shapes and forms of living organisms by use of precisely designed origami structures.

Queenie’s Geometry collection enlists the help of circular technology - specifically that of the double jersey machines. Despite the name, double jersey machines are equally capable of producing single jerseys as they are double, which makes them a great choice for versatility. Her SPP designs rely on the combination of double and single jersey knitting.

Concerned about creating sustainable products, Queenie chose to use natural fibers in her previous designs. However, after learning about different kinds of yarn during SPP, she became aware of sustainable man-made yarn selections and opted to use recycled yarn as it promotes a circular economy. Aside from recycled yarn, she also chose to use melting yarn as it provided the bags in the collection with rigidity and biodegradable materials for sustainability purposes.

While the Santoni Pioneer Program allows designers to take their concepts from an idea to reality, the production process is not without its challenges. Queenie comments that she must have gone through at least 15 rounds of fabric development in order to get it just right. She explains that material selection is difficult and requires a lot of trial and error before you can find the best result. SPP gave her the ability to consult with a technician who gave her an idea of what she should be looking for.

This aspect of people with different areas of expertise coming together is what makes SPP such a unique program. With a freeflow pool of peer knowledge available to designers, the typical issues that occur during the development process can be more easily resolved. Ease of communication combined with the possibility of bouncing ideas off of others allows for innovation to flow uninhibited, which is why the SPP designers are able to create such inventive finished products by the end of the program.

Since we’ve seen such great results come from SPP’s vision of breaking down all barriers to communication, MEC’s Materialliance platform was created in the same vein. While you may see collections from SPP designers, it exists not only as a space for designers, but for manufacturers, brand representatives, and suppliers alike. Materialliance offers a wealth of knowledge and is your go to spot for everything related to the textile industry.

As a designer using Materialliance, you can get inspired by other designers by going through their showcases or you can even promote your own designs! Not a designer? Not a problem. Materialliance also helps brand representatives find key suppliers and manufacturers to streamline your R&D. Similarly manufacturers and yarn suppliers can use the platform to connect directly with brands and designers looking to collaborate.

Materialliance has a little bit of something for everyone. Find out more about how you can be part of the Materialliance community here.

 

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