Case Study: Cyclical applications by Siri Wang

In this case study we will explore the work of Designer Siri Wang. Siri is a Chinese designer based in Shanghai, graduated from Donghua University and participant of the 18th edition of the Santoni Pioneer Program.

In this case study we will go thru her work process and discover how she was able to achieve the desired outcome for her collection “Cyclical Renewal”, a collection for modern cycling wear inspired in traditional Chinese cultural elements. Join us in this case study and learn about her process.

Siri’s collection was inspired by the intricate design and protective functionality of Qin Dynasty’s armor, aiming to blend Chinese historical elements along with modern cycling wear and creating a product that offers protection, flexibility, and style for urban cyclists.

The design process began with extensive research into Qin Dynasty’s traditional armor, focusing on its protective features, multi-contact points, overlapping layers, and variable mobility structures. Initial sketches were made to conceptualize how these elements could be integrated into modern cycling apparel, creating a wide variety of proposals and interesting variations.

Siri’s main goal was to achieve a texture that mimics the overlapping and interlayered structure of Qin Dynasty armor while ensuring breathability and comfort for cyclist, oaring not only functionality, but protection and mobility.

During her development, Siri incorporated generative artificial intelligence tools to interpret her collection proposal. in this stage she got a glimpse of a series of products based on her specifications, that later she would again reinterpret based on her material and product research, followed by the actual knitting of the product.

This process introduced her into a very different ideation and production cycle, which usually starts with the design, research and cut & sewn process.

The outcome of this process was a rich and edgy product that allowed Siri to step out of her comfort zone and start developing new products with a technologic yet functional approach. The mix of both technologies: A.I. and circular knitting, made the best mixture for Siri's creations.

Product: Cyclist Top

Product code:  SDJS10524

Machine: SM-DJ2T

Gauge: 20E

Yarns: Covered spandex 20D/30D, Nylon 100D/2, Polyester: 75D/2, Lycra 70D

For the first prototype, Siri decided to choose a blended yarn with Lycra, Nylon and Polyester fibers for enhanced functionality and elasticity. The SM-DJ2T machine was selected due to its double-sided and 3D effect knitting capabilities.

For this product, Siri faced a main pain point, which was achieving the desired balance between flexibility and protection while trying to replicate the interlayered protection of Qin Dynasty armor in a modern and breathable fabric.

This initial prototype provided Siri with insights into material behavior using the specific yarns and stitches of her choice, but did not fully achieve the desired flexibility and breathability balance.

In this garment, the engineered areas with applied tubular stitches and two color jacquard structures came out with very rigid . Although the outcome is incredibly attractive and does possess functional properties for protection,  the rigidity of the material must be modified to provide the wearer with a more flexible garment that allows comfort, protection and mobility.

Product: Backpack

Product code: SDJA02124

Machine: SM-DJ2T

Gauge: 20E

Yarns: 150D  Melting Nylon, 150Denier Polyester

Siri's second prototype was a backpack with ab auxetic effect. She decided to choose her yarns for a highly stretchable polyester and melting Nylon, which allowed her to create a 3D structure with a folding technique.

Melting nylon has a lower melting point compared to regular nylon fibers, typically around 85°C to 110°C (185°F to 230°F). This allows it to melt and bond at lower temperatures. When heated, melting nylon acts as a thermoplastic adhesive, bonding with other fibers or materials. This characteristic makes it valuable for products where a strong, durable bond is needed such as Siri’s prototype.

Due to the correct yarn selections, prototype No.2 showed great flexibility and long-lasting properties, achieving closer alignment with the desired protective structure. Besides this, the knit structure was optimized in order to enhance mobility with and showcase an auxetic structure effect in the fabric, using interlock and single jersey structures.

During the creation of her collection, Siri’s main key learnings focused in the importance of iterative design in achieving the perfect balance of functionality and style. Due to its versatility, seamless and circular knitting techniques require trial and test.

Another of the main key learning was the value of incorporating historical design elements into modern applications. Chinese culture is so vast, that ancient ergonomic knowledge and aesthetics can seamlessly be applied to modern and functional items.

Last, but not least, collaboration with technicians is crucial for overcoming technical challenges: constant communication, iteration and knowledge are crucial to achieve your desired outcomes.

Siri Wang is currently a fashion design graduate student at Donghua University, having received multiple scholarships and design awards. Specializing in integrating sports and science, modern knitting technology and traditional cultural elements are utilized to design functional sportswear that prioritizes health and comfort. In the design process, AIGC technology is actively integrated into sports knitwear design, promoting the integration and innovation between fashion, sports functions, knitwear technology, and traditional culture in a more efficient way.

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